John the Baptist
Buongiorno, My Florence loving friends, On my very first trip to Italy, I was able to attend the Calendimaggio di Assisi, which is an annual, four-day medieval festival held every May in the historic hill town of Assisi to celebrate the arrival of spring. The town is split into two rival factions—Parte de Sopra (the upper district, with blue colors) and Parte de Sotto (the lower district, with red colors)—who compete in costumed parades, theatrical plays, and choir performances. The local teams plan for this all year long and it is a truly spectacular site to see. Huge bleacher seats are set up on in the piazza, so the viewing is unparalleled. However, I have not yet been in Florence on June 24th which is ‘St. John the Baptist Day’ (Festa di San Giovanni) which is the biggest local holiday in Florence. He is primarily known as the forerunner of Jesus Christ, preaching repentance and baptizing people in the Jordan River to prepare the way for the Messiah. He is also universally famous for baptizing Jesus himself. On this day the city feels like it has stepped back into its own Renaissance…pageantry, devotion, sport, and spectacle all woven into one long, sun-drench celebration. The entire day is a blend of solemn tradition and joyful chaos, and the Florentines take it seriously…shops close, streets fill, drums echo, and the night ends in a blaze of fireworks over the Arno. The morning festivities begin with a grand historical parade through the Piazza della Signoria. Participants dress in medieval and Renaissance costumes…nobles, flag-throwers and musicians. The parade culminates in the offering of candles to Baptistery, a tradition dating back centuries when wealthy families donated elaborately decorated candles to help light the churches. A solemn Mass follows, with the relics of St. John the Baptist displayed. In the afternoon there is the Calcio Storico….Florence’s wildest and most beloved tradition. It is a is a brutal, traditional sport originating from 16th-century Italy. Often described as a hybrid of soccer, rugby, and bare-knuckle wrestling, it features two teams of 27 players battling for 50 minutes in sand-covered arenas. The match begins with a parade of costumed nobles on horseback and ends with a battle dry of “Viva Firenze!” It is tribal, emotional, and deeply Florentine. As the sun sets, crowds gather along the riverbanks and bridges to watch the famous ‘Fuochi de San Giovanni, the fireworks launched from Piazza Michelangelo. It is one of Florence’s most beloved moments of the year….families eating gelato, couples perched on the river walls, and the whole city glowing under bursts of color. I don’t know about you but I’ve just added it to my bucket list. Ciao… David & Tino
