The ‘Cult of Duck’
Hello My Duck Loving Friends, You know who you are….like Salt-N-Pepa sang back in the late 80’s…’This dance ain’t for everybody…only the sexy people’….yeah, I’m talkin’ to you sexy duck people. No need to explain to you about the reasons you love duck because it’s not for everyone and that’s part of its obsessive magic or as I like to call it….the ‘Cult of Duck’. Duck doesn’t try to please the masses…it’s bold, expressive and a little wild and that’s why we worshipers love it…we’re not looking for safe…we’re looking for flavor that feels alive. It’s one of those foods that smolders on my palate. It’s the richness…that deep almost velvety quality that feels like it was designed for slow evenings, low light, and lingering conversations. It’s my absolute favorite food prepared in any number of ways. It starts with the fat….that gorgeous, golden, crispable layer that renders into something close to alchemy. It’s what gives duck its signature, unique flavor. I have had a jar of it in my freezer as long as I can remember starting to take cooking seriously. The meat is dark….much more expressive than chicken…maybe squab is a close second but rarely seen on menus today. As a side bar… for those among you who tell me that you like to hear my stories going back to the covered wagon days, at my first restaurant ‘Pave’ in CDM I used to peel the skin off the breast, slowly render its fat then baste the raw breast with it and roast it for only 4 minutes in the oven…sliced, fanned and served a barely warm rare it melted in your mouth. I served it with the leg and thigh cooked confit style with a soy, lemon, garlic and ginger jus and duck fried rice…it was one of my first signature dishes and I remember one of the half-French owners of C’est Si Bon used to come in and order it saying it was the best duck he ever had…I considered that a serious compliment. But back to the duck in the hand. I am currently running a duck salad special that is one of my all-time favorites. It’s the kind of Fall salad that makes you feel that golden hour when the air cools, the leave flare, and everything tastes a little deeper. It features the leg & thigh portion that has been cooked ‘confit’ style meaning simmered slowly until the meat is falling off the bone tender and the skin has given up it’s glorious fat. It is then crisped over high heat to order rendering the skin crackling crisp. It’s settled into a nest of somewhat heart greens that bring their own strong textures and personalities to the party.….peppery arugula, red-dipped endive and wine stained radicchio…all dressed in a gentle white balsamic vinaigrette that ties the greens and duck together effortlessly. Fresh raspberries and diced Honeycrisp apples parachute in like little sparks of color, their tart sweetness cutting through the richness of the duck. And just when you think the seduction is complete, the closing note involves another of my favorite duck delights…luscious and velvety, brandied duck liver mousse spread thickly on toasted baguette rounds. I started with one but ended up with two…..shocking I know…..a few dots of deep, dark balsamic syrup on the plate and I’m in duck heaven….it’s Fall abundance in its most flirtatious form. Back to the ‘Culture of Duck’….interesting to know how many ways this 4 letter word has woven it’s way into our culture. If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it’s a duck…like a duck to water…get your ducks in a row….water off a duck’s back….Ugly duckling…sitting duck…lame duck…dead duck…fine weather for ducks….duck soup…ducking out….interesting no? I hope I’ve piqued your interest…this salad makes for a great Fall lunch or a light but satisfying dinner enjoyed with one of your favorite red wines. Look for two more treatments of this sacred bird coming this winter. For Brunch a version of the classic French ‘Salade Lyonnaise’ with duck confit stepping in replacing the bacon lardons all topped with a warm, creamy poached egg. For dinner, crispy confit style served with my favorite cornbread-pine nut stuffing, butternut squash and a brandied Michigan sour cherry sauce. BTW, Traverse City, known as the cherry capital of the world, celebrated the 100th Year anniversary of its Cherry Festival this July. Also, don’t forget the my brandied Terrine of Duck Liver Mousse topped with a Blackberry Gelee is always available at Tavern at the Mission for lunch, dinner or brunch. Signing off for now…may the Duck be with you… David & Tino
