Salsa Quemada
Good morning Friends, As you may recall, a few weeks ago, we introduced ‘Cowboy Taco Tuesday’ night at Tavern at the Mission along with a ‘burnt salsa’ that I developed years ago. It’s unique in that the tomatoes, scallions, chiles and cilantro are all grilled and charred, giving it an unusual flavor and appearance. No, this salsa is not going to win any beauty contest, but our guests are already loving it and have asked if I would consider providing the recipe for it which I have happily posted below. With all the summer grilling in swing right now, you can easily make this salsa start to finish in 30 minutes, however, it will taste much better the following day as all the flavors will meld and mature when refrigerated overnight. I hope you’ll give it a try…you’ll be glad you did… Happy Grilling! David & Tino
Squash Blossoms
Buongiorno Foodie Friends, I’m knee deep in celebrating summer already and happy to have the June Gloom behind us…for the most part. I think many of you know how fond I am of squash blossoms and what a delicacy they are, but for the life of me, it’s like they are some kind of secret whispered between Mexico and Italy? Yes, they are fleeting, tender, almost too beautiful to eat, yet unforgettable once you do. They are the edible confetti of the garden…here for a moment then gone in a blink. They’re known as ‘Fiori di Zucca’ in Italian and ‘Flor de Calabaza’ in Spanish…both rolling off the tongue charmingly as beautiful in sound as they are in nature. The short answer to this mystery might be tradition and agriculture, as both countries are deeply tied to cuisines built around the garden. Mexico’s trio of corn, beans & squash naturally produces blossoms in abundance, and Italian ‘Cucina Povera’ or ‘poor cooking’ has always prized ingredients that appear seasonally and must be used right away. There’s just something poetic about honoring an ingredient that refuses to be anything but ephemeral. Squash blossoms ask you to slow down, to cook today what grew this morning, to savor something that won’t be here tomorrow. Mexico and Italy understand this instinctively and celebrate it as do I. I think they also require a certain kind of cooking philosophy. They aren’t bold, they’re subtle and floral. I think they are often seen as ‘Chef ingredients’ which means they only appear on fine dining restaurant menus, which makes them feel niche rather than every day. But I serve them every day on my popular squash blossom, artichoke, Boursin and pesto flatbread at TATM. In Italy you can find them everywhere on menus where they are served simply dipped in a Prosecco based batter, fried, and served crispy, like their version of potato chips, dusted with a little finely shaved Parmigiana. In finer restaurants, they are often filled with a cheese blend of some kind before frying….this requires time and effort but if you’ve ever had these you quickly understand why cooks go to all that trouble. I’ve made these numerous times at home served on a simple tomato or roasted red pepper puree… they are one of my favorite all time appetizers and draw raves from others. But there is another way of serving these cheese stuffed treasures without going through the hassle of deep frying…by simply baking them in the oven briefly until the cheese is warmed up and then served on your choice of either hot or cold sauce. I’ve posted my recipe below so hope you give it a try this summer….you’ll be happy you did. You’re Welcome… David with Tino’s ‘Bark of Approval’
Summer Heirloom Tomatoes
Buongiorno Foodie Friends, Well, it’s officially summer when my culinary thoughts turn to fruit and vegetables. Yeah, I know….we can get almost anything year-round here in Southern California, although not always ripe or imbued with much flavor as they’re picked too soon in order to be shipped from far away farms. However, having spent years long ago where there were 4 distinct seasons that occurred, I still like to pretend. One of summer’s bounties are heirloom tomatoes. Funny, I can think back not too terribly long ago when these were only available at small farmer’s markets, but now better grocery stores all carry them. I love them in their simplicity. Sun‑warmed, vine‑ripe beauties in all their wild shapes and colors, that look like they’re hand painted. There’s something deeply human about them…they’re imperfect, irregular and full of personality…unlike the tidy look-alikes all in rows at the supermarkets. Sweet, bright, impossibly juicy — the pure joy of summer on a plate. One of my favorite ways to enjoy them is thickly sliced, stacked on a plate with red onion, and Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue Cheese crumbled on top. Drizzled with some great EVO (lucky me that I have some Bramasole!) and some really good red wine vinegar. Lastly showered with sweet basil leaves, a couple twists of black pepper and some Maldon sea salt. They’re a reminder that some of the best things in life are fleeting, seasonal, and meant to be savored slowly. You’re Welcome… David & Tino
They Come in Cans
Hello Foodie Friends, Last week I came across an on-line chef/cook who was doing a take off on the classic French ‘Escargots Bourguignonne’ but instead of using snails he was using Maine lobster meat. While as creative and exotic as this seemed to me at first I thought that the delicate sweet flavor of lobster would be overwhelmed by being drowned in garlic butter. The second thing I thought was about the first time I’d ever experienced snails. It was the summer of 1968..I was on summer break from college and lied my way into working at what was, at the time, one of the hottest restaurants on the East Side of Manhattan…Maxwell’s Plum. Owned by movie producer Werner LeRoy, it was a theatrical tour de force. The restaurant was divided into two areas. A more casual perimeter of tables known as the Café and then in the rear, an elevated dining room covered in a real Tiffany glass ceiling that had a separate French oriented menu. As I said, I had lied my way into getting hired as a Captain and my main responsibilities were making steak tartare and Caesar salad tableside. (I have a great story about my steak tartare competition with my French GM and the derivation of the name for my French 75 in Laguna to be shared on another post). I was one of only two Americans working at the restaurant… the other guy Jimmy was a slightly older, wily, and experienced kid from Jersey who had a certain American charm that worked on all the ladies. Anyway, one day on our lunch break he said to me, half-laughing, “ I don’t understand what the fascination is with escargots….everybody knows they come in cans.” I remember him grinning sarcastically as he said this to me still like it was yesterday and have had several musings about it over the years, right up to the time I grudgingly decided to add them to the menu at my French 75 in Laguna. I used to remember how everyone DID talk about escargots like they were this ancient French delicacy…meanwhile, the vast majority DID come out of a can like a fancy Chef Boyardee product with a passport and a superiority complex. I thought about French chef’s foraging snails at dawn in misty vineyards only to hear a POP…Oh yeah…that’s the can opening. Anyway, back to French 75. When I originally opened I did not have escargots on the menu for the aforementioned reasons. However, persistent guests continue to cause me sleepless nights with their relentless onslaught of comments about how can you call yourself a French bistro and not have Escargots on the menu? Undeterred, I did some digging and to my wonderful surprise discovered that, as an alternative to these canned, lazy-ass moving slugs, there were actually basil fed snails that had an exclusive diet of fresh basil infusing them with a distinct, aromatic and herbaceous flavor…’Quelle surprise!’ Not only that, but they were not canned, rather they were cryovaced and refrigerated to preserve their freshness and flavor…I then knew I had made my peace with the strange world of mollusks and that they would be finding a home on my menu. Back to the lobster….I liked the idea of tweaking the classic Escargots dish so was off to buy some but when I arrived at the seafood counter I found a rare item instead….East Coast Bay Scallops. These tiny nuggets were very popular when I lived in Boston for 3 years after college but it is a rarity to see them in California so I decided to give them a try instead of lobster. I dug out the one baking dish I had, napped each insert with a little white wine, then a few of the tiny scallops, topped it with a savory paprika tinged garlic butter and lastly, small little circles of puff pastry. Brushed them with a little egg wash and popped them into a hot oven. 15 minutes later out they came and after letting them cool just a bit I dug in….they were delicious. The nutty flavor of the scallops still came through the garlic butter and the little puff pastry berets were not only f’ing cute but a added a nice textural contrast. You’re welcome… David with Tino’s edits
Tuscany
Buongiorno Friends, So, I just finished reviewing last month’s results regarding visits to our TATM website. I was, I guess, not completely surprised that whenever my Blog posts were about sharing stories, memories, and musings about my lifelong love affair with food, and particularly my deepening affection for Tuscany, these were the most viewed. Nope, not those posts about my dear Tino unless I mention him as my Sous Chef which leave many of you scratching your heads wondering what my little man might do to assist me in the kitchen? Answer…he keeps the floor clean of food scraps & droppings. But, I love that these are the posts you enjoy as I think it speaks to a deeper love…food can only be so good…it’s about the sharing and celebration that elevates the enjoyment and experience. For me, this is goes all the way back to the first meal I ever prepared for my family as a teenager. I remember that give me a type of joy that I had never experienced…much different than piano recitals or achievement in sports. I didn’t realize it right away, but eventually I came to learn that there is something special about creating a food experience for people who share it with camaraderie of being together. That’s why I have so gravitated toward the Tuscan lifestyle, their food and the way they celebrate every meal…large or small…savoring their pasta….stopping for an afternoon espresso…lingering over gelato. There is just something about Tuscany that feels less like a place and more like a rhythm your body remembers even if you’ve never lived there. A way of moving through the day and the world that says: slow down, taste this, look at who’s sitting across from you, let the moment be enough. It’s not curated…it’s simply how they live. It’s very easy to fall in love with that ease….the way a Tuscan morning begins with the smell of espresso drifting out of a kitchen window, someone slicing fruit, or tearing bread with their hands. The way lunch isn’t a break from life but the center of it. The way dinner stretches, not because anyone is trying to linger, but because why would you rush something so sacred? The Toscani don’t ‘host’ the way Americans host. They welcome.. they fold you into the table like you were always meant to be there. Food isn’t the star….it’s the language. Don’t get me wrong…their food is marvelous always starting with incredibly clean, pure and flavorful raw ingredients that are simply enhanced to bring out the best in them. A bowl of ribollita says ‘you’re safe here’. A plate of pappardelle with wild boar ragu says ‘this land has fed us for centuries’. A drizzle of EVO says we ‘honor the hands that made this possible.’ No one is trying to impress. They’re celebrating the everyday…the tomato that tastes like the sun, the bread that taste like the village, and the wine that tastes like the hillside. They celebrate each other too…and Oh…do they LOVE their dogs…(another reason I like them). The laughter, the arguments, the stories get louder as the night deepens. Loving the Tuscan lifestyle is really loving the idea that life is meant to be shared…not in grand gestures, but in small, repeated daily rituals that say….’I’m here…you’re here…let’s enjoy this together. My dream is to someday retire in Tuscany or at least be able to spend most of my time there. In the meantime, I will continue to write about my love for it in the hopes that, if you haven’t been….you will make plans to spend some time there…..soon. Ciao… David & Tino
Southern Comfort Burger
Hey Food Friends, I introduced this burger when I was the founder and operating partner of Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern. I was familiar with Elvis’s favorite sandwich made with peanut butter, jam and copious amounts of bacon, but one day was wondering what his favorite burger might have been. In doing some research I found he had none, although he did have a penchant for Krystal sliders, so I decided to create on that I was sure he would have liked. I’ve always liked to combine what I call my 3 S’s…spicy, sweet and smoky and I wanted it to be influenced by the deep south so felt it just HAD to include one of the most popular staples….pimento cheese. The smokiness would come from the Pecan wood smoked bacon and the sweet and spicy would both come from the jalapeño jam. One try of this unlikely combo and I was hooked….just added some crispy onion fritters for a little extra height and texture. I have to admit that one Sunday for Brunch I did make this sandwiched in between two Krispy Kreme’s… Hey, I told you I was from the Midwest.. Hope the brave ones among you take one for a test drive this month… You’re welcome… David & Tino
Tony & Tucci
Hello Foodie Friends & otherwise curiosity seekers, Many of you have commented on, and sent questions about, the image of me and two of my favorite food dogs…Anthony Bourdain and Stanley Tucci, although many of you didn’t recognize ‘The Tucc’ from a photo take from his latest role in ‘The Citadel’….big switch from ‘this Zucchini pasta changed my life’ to his latest ‘Say Hello to my little friend’ persona. A few of you even, and God bless you, thought that, even amidst the current AI world that we are now learning to live in, this was an actual photo taken…..I only wish that were the case. When Tony hit the public scene early on in his career with his ‘Kitchen Confidential’ book, I quickly identified with him and his bravery and willingness to show, a sometimes gritty, behind the scenes look at what it was really like to be a kick-ass line cook in a busy restaurant. Early one in my career I was one of them…I thought of myself as a sauté gunslinger…’Fistful of Dollars’ style. I’m still proud to say that I met few cooks back then working the line who could match the speed and accuracy of my skills. Warning here… not so humble brag …no wasted motion, I loved being ‘in the weeds’ for 2 hours and of course after my shift I enjoyed a 3 fingers of Anejo tequila while I slowly came down from the natural rush and high that this experience created…not a big surprise how many cooks are heavy drinkers….I was one too…just not any more. But back to the dogs I admire. Stanley spoke of Anthony Bourdain with real admiration, warmth, and humility. The clearest picture from sourced material shows three key truths about how Tucci viewed him: Like me, Tucci considered Bourdain a hero Tucci explicitly called Bourdain “a hero of mine” and credited him with opening the doors for anyone who wanted to explore food and travel on camera. 2. He respected Bourdain’s mind, storytelling, and bravery Tucci said he “knew Tony a bit” and described him as: “an incredible mind” “a real raconteur” “a great explorer” He emphasized that Bourdain was far more adventurous and brave than he was, and that his own show was intentionally different rather than an attempt to replace Bourdain’s legacy. 3. He rejected comparisons and refused the idea of being “the next Bourdain” Even as critics and fans compared Searching for Italy to Parts Unknown, Tucci pushed back, saying he would never try to take Bourdain’s place. He insisted the world is big enough for multiple voices in food‑travel storytelling. Tucci’s comments consistently carry a tone of deep respect, gratitude, and deference. He saw Bourdain as a singular figure — someone who changed the landscape of food and travel television and made audiences “a lot happier.” He spoke of Bourdain the way one speaks of a distant constellation — a bright, wandering star who mapped the world with appetite and honesty. He called him a hero, a mind that moved like a knife through ripe fruit, sharp, curious, unafraid. A man who tasted the world not to conquer it, but to understand it. “Tony was braver,” Tucci admitted… as if bravery were a spice Bourdain carried in his pocket. And yet, in the glow of a shared legacy, Tucci doesn’t try to fill his shoes. He simply walks his own road — slower, more lyrical, more wine‑soaked — but always with a quiet nod toward the man who came before. Two travelers, two storytellers, our world made richer because they passed through it. And so now you know why the photo of the three of us together, inspired and created by my dear friends Ali & Jackie, means so much to me that it hangs in the lobby of Tavern at the Mission and below the computer screen in my home office. I love to be able to consider the three of us as culinary ‘Brothers in Arms’. RIP Tony….Rock on Stanley… David 2.0 and Sous Chef Tino
Chicken Fried Steak
Hey Foodie Friends, As I think many of you know by now, I grew up in the wide-open, mostly quiet Midwest…Michigan to be exact. Where summer suppers meant bringing home fresh corn on the cob from roadside stands set up in front of the growing fields, shucked in the back yard under shade trees on the picnic table, then briefly boiled so as to still be a bit crunchy, and lastly basted in salted butter that made them taste like you feel when you know someone loves you. After the feast there was often Mom’s homemade apple or berry pies still slightly warm from the oven, sitting on the window sills, attracting honey bees, that God forbid, never leave us as they play a huge part in keeping us all fed and alive…awaiting a large and proper scoop of vanilla ice cream…yeah, if you’re asking…those memories really do still live within me and for some reason, the older I get the stronger and more frequently I visit them. But at an early age, curiosity pulled me farther. First to NYC, where I got my first taste of fine French cuisine…where I learned to respect the discipline of the brigade of line cooks who often swore at me in French for the mistakes this ‘DSK’ from Michigan made, to their reverence for butter, and the poetry of the perfect sauces they meticulously created each morning. Then later to Italy, where I discovered another level of joyous cooking not necessarily shared by the French….loud kitchens, laughter, and ingredients that didn’t need fixing because they were already beautifully singing out just in their rawness. So, my heart is, and I cook in, the intersection of all three places: the heart of the Midwest, the technique and coaxed flavors of France, and the joyful, sharing soul of Italy. I like to think my food is honest, generous, a little nostalgic, and always rooted in the belief that the best dishes tell the story of where you’ve been when shared with others. But right now, I’m wearing the big ass, beautiful, black Stetson cowboy hat the my dear friends Mike & Nancy Thompson bought be for my recent birthday because I’m cooking up a classic breakfast dish that rolls from Arizona, through Texas and into the deep Southeastern states…I’m talkin’ bout ‘Chicken Fried Steak & Eggs’. Now, full transparency as the political candidates all like to spout, I’m not a big breakfast guy…but…very rarely on the weekends, after a few 5:00 AM cups black French Roast coffees have left me buzzing, I’ll develop a late morning appetite and there is one dish I find myself jonesing for. Now the typical steak served in this dish is a sorry-ass cut of top or bottom round that is pounded and needled to death sold as ‘cubed steak’. As I was writing this post I started wondering where that term came from and discovered that some genius claimed that the name came from “the distinctive, crisscrossing pattern of indentations left on the meat during the tenderizing process”…Wow…now isn’t that some romantic marketing language…doubt that this brother is still employed by the meat people. (As a side bar however, there is something to be said for culinary wordsmithing….the lowly ‘Patagonian Toothfish’ went from selling for under $20 a pound decades ago to the current $50 a pound price at Gelson’s after switching the name to what is now known as ‘Chilean Sea Bass’…seriously people?) Anyway, back to the dish at hand. I prefer to use filet mignon for this dish for a number of reasons. Firstly, after cutting the beautiful perfectly symmetrical filets from the heart of the tenderloin, there is always the tail piece left which is very thin and not suitable as a steak so at my Taverns we cut it into small cubes, skewer, and grill it and served with pearl onions, mushrooms and napped with Bearnaise sauce, it becomes one of our most popular appetizers. Secondly, being the most tender cut of beef, it lends itself perfectly to pounding into a flat disc and can be flash fried to create the delicious crust that this dish is famous for, while still being pink and moist on the inside. The last crowning detail for this dish is always some type of pan gravy, often made with a dash of coffee….no thanks…I’ve tried that and already have already had my share of life’s bitterness. I’ve always said that the reason my Fried Chicken is the #1 selling entrée is because of the thyme gravy and it’s also a perfect fit for this dish. Served with a couple sunnyside farm fresh eggs and crisp tater tots* and you’ve got yourself one helluva satisfying breakfast and, coincidentally, it’s available every weekend this month for lunch and Sunday Brunch at my Tavern at the Mission. Tino & I hope you swing by and give it try…promise you will not be disappointed. P.S. *I have to tell you about tater tots and a lady who had recently dined with us and wrote a Yelp review about her Avocado Toast Bennedict. She said she would have given us a 5 star rating except for the ‘yucky’ tots served, a term not normally associated with qualified restaurant reviewers, so instead she gave us 4 stars. HEY LADY…dissing on tots just seems un-American. Did you know that there are 5.7 billion or 70 million tots sold each year in the US? Fun fact…they were developed in 1953 when American frozen food company Ore-Ida founders Nephi Grigg, Golden Grigg and Ross Erin Butler Sr. were trying to devise a recipe to use leftover slivers of cut potatoes that would otherwise be thrown away. They chopped up the slivers, add flour and seasoning, then pushed the mash through holes and sliced off pieces of the extruded mixture…..and now you know. You’re Welcome…. D 2.0 & T
Cowboy Bourbon
Given the increasing popularity of Bourbons, especially among our cowboy friends in San Juan Capistrano, we recently introduced a new Bourbon list including flight tastings and the introduction of a line of of Texas produced Garrison Brothers Bourbons. They have an interested story that I thought I’d share with you. The Garrison Brothers is the story of one stubborn Texan, a scorching Hill Country Ranch, and a dream to make the first great Texas bourbon….long before anyone thought it was possible. What began as a financial collapse and a wild idea turned into one of the most respected craft distilleries in America. Last year I had a guest come into my Tumbleweed Bar and ask if we had Cowboy Bourbon. Welp, I had never heard of it but I started researching it and was introduced to the history of Garrisons Bourbon. As a result I developed a new Bourbon list featuring 5 of their different bourbons including the rare, hard to get, ‘Cowboy. Several months later, I was told that founder Dan Garrison was going to be in Orange County and was asked if I’d like him to come by and talk to my staff about his history and their delicious bourbons…I jumped at the chance. When he visited us he explained that he didn’t know anything about how to distill so he spent some time in Kentucky touring distilleries and asking questions. He then returned to his small ranch in Hye, Texas, built a barn and started with Texas grain, rainwater and scorching heat. He said the heat became both his enemy and the secret to his success. Barrels exploded, bourbon evaporated, and he ran out of money four times. But….the same heart also accelerated aging…it took one fifth the time that it does in Kentucky. The Cowboy bourbon started out actually as an accident. Early on, several barrels weren’t meeting their distillery standards. They were high-proof, wild, and inconsistent. Dan instructed that they dump them into a stainless-steel tank and that they would “figure it out later”. Months passed and one day Dan pulled a sample….everything had changed. The bourbon had mellowed, transformed, and become something quite extraordinary….rich, sweet, powerful and shockingly smooth for its proof (140+). That accidental blend became the first Cowboy Bourbon. Since then is has developed a cult following among collectors and whiskey nerds. It is unfiltered, uncut, and bottled straight from the barrel. Most bourbons at 140 proof taste like jet fuel. The Cowboy tastes like dessert with a kick. It has a limited annual release often selling out immediately. A collector’s item with bottles sometimes line up for days A symbol of Texas whiskey’s bold identity. A multi-award winning spirit earning Platinum and Gold Medals across major competitions. In closing, we have a half bottle left of this year’s allotment so it won’t last long but if you’re willing to part with $80 for a glass, it’s an experience you won’t soon forget…strap in and step up! David 2.0
Tucci and Cowboy
Good morning.. Sorry that it’s been a while since my last post but I’ve been busy working on new dishes for one of my new favorite nights at Tavern at the Mission….Stanley Tucci Night! Each Wednesday I get a chance to share my love, and Stanley’s, for all things Italian. I feature one entrée, appetizer and 3 pasta dishes each week along with my favorite desserts….Affogato! The other night we all love is Cowboy Thursdays which give the cowboy or cowgirl in each of us a chance to put on our hats, boots and duds and hang out on our patio and Tumbleweed Bar. Just wearing your cowboy hat entitles you to drink half off all night….yep…that means wine, beer and cocktails. I have a great country western playlist that we crank up and a great time is had for all. Before I go, I’ve received many requests about recipes so look for some of my restaurant and home version favorites in future posts. Also, if you’re not signed up as a VIP-Eclub member, please go on our website at www.tavernatthemission.com and sign up for other exclusive privileges and discounts like 25% off all food during weekday lunches and 30% discount on all food on Tuesday Nights… Stay tuned and thanks for following!
