Aging Gracefully
Hello Friends, I watched a segment on the CBS Sunday Morning Show a while ago where 78-year-old Ted Danson talked about his philosophy of aging. Having always enjoyed him as Sam the affable bartender in ‘Cheers’, his subtle sense of humor as a commercial pitchman, and as a 77-year-old myself, I was very interested in what he had to say and a lot of it really resonated with me. So, for those who didn’t happen to see thesegment I thought I’d share his thoughts along with some of mine. There were 4 things he suggested. ‘Embrace your age at every stage of life rather than comparing your older self to your younger self or trying to stop the aging process.’ Like my love for the changing seasons, this has been something that I think unknowingly and without any effort I have been able to do. That doesn’t mean I don’t try and keep myself in shape. After 10 minutes of meditation in the morning I go through a 30 minute workout including Thai Chi, chair Yoga and Isometrics and then Tino and I do a daily 1-2 mile walk. ‘Stay Curious and Creative: Keep your mind active by learning a new language, taking an art class, or trying new hobbies. These activities boost brain health and can reduce the need for medications.’ I’ve been blessed with both an innate creative spirit and a vocation that has allowed me to express my creativitythrough food but I also have been recently trying to learn a little more Italian! ‘Nurture Relationships: Build and maintain a strong social network. Loving and staying connected to others leads to better long-term health and a longer life’. Not something I’ve always been very good at but this year I’ve made this a priority in my life and I’m all the richer and happier for it. Also, I can’t possibly overstate the impact Tino coming into my life has had on me. He is a constant, loving companion/Sous/Chef following me from room to room around the house with, not surprisingly, the kitchen being his favorite spot. ‘Keep Evolving: Focus on personal growth, find joy in everyday moments, and use humor and laughter to reduce stress and boost well-being’. My mantra has always been to try and improve on previous efforts and accomplishments…what’s past is done…but what’s next? Few things feel better than laughing with others. I would also add to this the importance of maintaining a positive mindset, which many people have complimented me on during my life. The restaurant business is notorious for its intense pressure and its ups and downs and, God knows, I’ve experienced lots of them. But research shows a positive mindset helps prevent memory loss, improves overall health, and increases longevity. When you believe life can be fun and meaningful at any age, you are much more likely to exercise, eat well, and go to regular doctor appointments. This continuous engagement is what Danson calls “keeping your foot on the gas pedal.” Cheers to you, Ted! David & Tino
Fromage Fort
Hello Friends, I’ve been doing a lot of cheese sampling for the new Florence inspired sandwiches that I’m offering at my Tavern at the Mission and yesterday I looked at the cheese drawer in my fridge and realized it was overflowing with orphaned bits and pieces of leftover great cheeses. There was a proud heel of Parmigiano, hardened like an old soldier, a smidge of Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue sitting all by itself in the corner, some silky, sexy Stracciatella, a chunk of aged and, lo and behold, my queen of all cheeses….Taleggio. They were all just sitting there like mismatched guests after a dinner party, wondering if there is anything that becomes of them when they are past their prime, but not past their purpose. I then remembered a little trick that I used at Chat Noir when we had lots of leftover cheese from the charcuterie and fromage plates we used to serve. It’s a clever way of extending the life of cheeses invented by the frugal French when they are blended all together with a little white wine, brandy or even and eau de vie, which is a is a clear, colorless fruit brandy that is produced by fermentation and double distillation. So, there I was, a benevolent rescuer armed with my bad ass Breville food processor, also given to me as a gift by someone very special, along with a little leftover Reisling and a thimble of Brandy…and so the ‘After Party’ began. No pecking order necessary…they were all willingly just tumbled together in the bowl. When wine and brandy were splashed on them, I could swear they perked up and brightened now knowing their ultimate destiny was about to be realized. Then a couple herbs joined the party…chives and thyme leaves along with a whisper of garlic…and suddenly, the whole mixture becoming a lush, velvety spread with the swagger of a French Grand-mere who knows exactly what to do with leftovers. This is FROMAGE FORT…the triumphant second life of forgotten cheeses, reborn in their after life as a bold, boozy, utterly irresistible spread. I also was long on some of the herbed Schiacciatta bread used in my sandwiches that I had wrapped and tucked in the fridge not knowing what their future was until now. A few minutes in the air fryer and I was enjoying one glorious culinary marriage. A humble redemption story….starring my fridge. You’re Welcome David & Tino
Italian Autogrill
Hey Friends, So, I was re-watching one of Tucci’s episodes about Lombardy and there were two parts that peaked my interest. (It seems like every time I rewatch them, I catch something that I didn’t see before) The first was about a Michelin starred restaurant that grew all of it’s own produce year round, which started me thinking…is seasonal cooking becoming extinct?…but I’ll save this for another post. The second part of the episode was about the Italian AutoGrills which are the roadside restaurants lining the Autostradas and I started thinking about, once again, how different the Italians view travel and food….and the food that they eat when they travel. So I did a little research and uncovered some really cool stuff. AutoGrills aren’t just rest stops…they’re a whole quirky, deeply Italian cultural institution. They began as tiny post-war pastry kiosks in the late 1940’s. The very first one wasn’t a modern rest stop at all…it was a humble kiosk owned by Mario Pavesi, a Lombard baker’s son, on the Milan-Turn highway where he sold cookies and coffee to truck drivers. This tiny stand became the side of Italy’s entire highway dining culture. In 1959 Pavesi invented the ‘bridge-restaurant’ Autogrill which was suspended over the road…a glass walled-bridge where diners could watch cars stream beneath them. My first thought was, were these the forerunners to American roadside restaurants? No, actually American rest stops (especially the orange-roofed Howard Johnson’s) came first. Pavesi and his architect traveled through the US highway system in the 1950’s and were struck by these ‘Oasis’ rest stops built as bridges over the highway. They returned to Italy and started designing and building their own highly visible, architecturally futuristic structures copying American-style foodservice to Italian tastes. A newculture of stopping, eating, and socializing on the road began to take place. This was a radical shift for postwar Italy as it transitioned form a largely agriculturally driven economy into modern, consumerism including the romance of travel. Another fun fact…in 1999 AutoGrill acquired Host Marriott Services, the dominant operator of US airport and highway concessions. These Autogrills introduced a more ambitious architectural approach, greater emphasis on food quality and a shift toward multi-concept food halls rather than single-chain diners. They now serve real regional food that actually shifts with the region. As an example, in Tuscany they serve wild boar (cinghiale) dishes…in Emilia-Romagna…Parma ham and Parmigiano..and everywhere proper espressos are served by trained baristas…they treat food as culture….not as convenience. In the Tucci episode he ordered Osso Bucco Milanese which was served to him in a matter of minutes because the pre-cooked and then froze the pasta taking only 30 minutes to reheat and serve. The whole veal shank wasn’t obviously served, rather it was a smaller version of tender braised beef placed in the center of the risotto in traditional fashion. Autogrill emerged from the merger of Motta, Pavesi, and Alemagna…three giants of mid-century Italian pastry and coffee culture. Their DNA shapes the Autogrill vibe today…espresso bars, pastries, panini, and a certain Milanese modernism. During the 1970’s oil crisis, all three of these founding companies struggled, but the Italian government intervened and saved them merging them into Autogrill S.p.A., preserving the highway dining network as a national travel infrastructure. Today, the Autogrill operates 625 high locations 147 airport outlets 162 train stations 94 city center shops It’s one of Italy’s most recognizable brands worldwide and the Italians love them. They now include charging stations for EV’s, sleek interiors, curated food halls, and even chef-driven restaurants like the one Tucci visited where they claimed the chef’s work 3 years to perfect his risotto dish! The Italians treat Autogrill as part of the joy of road-tripping. A pre-made panino, a quick espresso at the bar, a browse through regional snacks…it’s a ritual for them. They are a cultural time capsule of Italy’s post-war economic boom known as Italy’s “Miracolo economico Italiano”…their ‘economic miracle’. And now you know the whole story… Ciao Amici… David & Tino
French Onion Tomato Bisque
Hey Tomato People, With all this talk about summer heirloom tomatoes eaten simply drizzled with your favorite EVO, Modena Balsamic vinegar and sea salt or unmercifully thrown on the grill to make my signature salsa, there’s another dish that I like to make when heirlooms are at their best….’French Onion’ Tomato Bisque. Now, you may be thinking to yourself as I know Tino is, with all this crazy summer heat and humidity, how can anyone be thinking about making soup? Well, it’s because this version speaks to the rhythm of a real summer night…not the postcard version, but the lived-in one that you know if you’re living near the coast like I do in San Juan Capistrano…no matter how hot it gets during the day…the lack of clouds means the heat doesn’t get trapped in at night, resulting in a beautiful chilliness as the sun gently drops into the Pacific. In the dead heat of the day, heirloom tomatoes are at their loudest…sun-drunk, sweet and a little warm to the touch. Slowly caramelized French onion flavors don’t feel like they belong in July, but they do….just because summer isn’t just all about high noon. It’s also 9:00 or so at night on the patio, when the summer breezes remember how to move. It’s happening tonight as Tino and I sit outside, him with his nose in the air trying to search for just the right direction to catch the breeze face on and me enjoying a light summer supper soup delight. This soup makes sense because it’s comforting without the heaviness of its namesake….the tomatoes keeping it floral yet still blanketed in the coveted glaze of caramelized cheese that make it so well loved. No need to give you a recipe here…just toss them in olive oil with some onions and garlic, roast them for a bit, then blend them with some chicken or vegetable stock and fresh basil and season to taste. Pour into a crock, top with some crunchy bread and aged cheddar and broil until slightly melted. Garnish it with a fresh basil crown and some chives so you feel all ‘Chefy’ about it and enjoy. Be brave….go for it… David & Tino
Salsa Quemada
Good morning Friends, As you may recall, a few weeks ago, we introduced ‘Cowboy Taco Tuesday’ night at Tavern at the Mission along with a ‘burnt salsa’ that I developed years ago. It’s unique in that the tomatoes, scallions, chiles and cilantro are all grilled and charred, giving it an unusual flavor and appearance. No, this salsa is not going to win any beauty contest, but our guests are already loving it and have asked if I would consider providing the recipe for it which I have happily posted below. With all the summer grilling in swing right now, you can easily make this salsa start to finish in 30 minutes, however, it will taste much better the following day as all the flavors will meld and mature when refrigerated overnight. I hope you’ll give it a try…you’ll be glad you did… Happy Grilling! David & Tino
Squash Blossoms
Buongiorno Foodie Friends, I’m knee deep in celebrating summer already and happy to have the June Gloom behind us…for the most part. I think many of you know how fond I am of squash blossoms and what a delicacy they are, but for the life of me, it’s like they are some kind of secret whispered between Mexico and Italy? Yes, they are fleeting, tender, almost too beautiful to eat, yet unforgettable once you do. They are the edible confetti of the garden…here for a moment then gone in a blink. They’re known as ‘Fiori di Zucca’ in Italian and ‘Flor de Calabaza’ in Spanish…both rolling off the tongue charmingly as beautiful in sound as they are in nature. The short answer to this mystery might be tradition and agriculture, as both countries are deeply tied to cuisines built around the garden. Mexico’s trio of corn, beans & squash naturally produces blossoms in abundance, and Italian ‘Cucina Povera’ or ‘poor cooking’ has always prized ingredients that appear seasonally and must be used right away. There’s just something poetic about honoring an ingredient that refuses to be anything but ephemeral. Squash blossoms ask you to slow down, to cook today what grew this morning, to savor something that won’t be here tomorrow. Mexico and Italy understand this instinctively and celebrate it as do I. I think they also require a certain kind of cooking philosophy. They aren’t bold, they’re subtle and floral. I think they are often seen as ‘Chef ingredients’ which means they only appear on fine dining restaurant menus, which makes them feel niche rather than every day. But I serve them every day on my popular squash blossom, artichoke, Boursin and pesto flatbread at TATM. In Italy you can find them everywhere on menus where they are served simply dipped in a Prosecco based batter, fried, and served crispy, like their version of potato chips, dusted with a little finely shaved Parmigiana. In finer restaurants, they are often filled with a cheese blend of some kind before frying….this requires time and effort but if you’ve ever had these you quickly understand why cooks go to all that trouble. I’ve made these numerous times at home served on a simple tomato or roasted red pepper puree… they are one of my favorite all time appetizers and draw raves from others. But there is another way of serving these cheese stuffed treasures without going through the hassle of deep frying…by simply baking them in the oven briefly until the cheese is warmed up and then served on your choice of either hot or cold sauce. I’ve posted my recipe below so hope you give it a try this summer….you’ll be happy you did. You’re Welcome… David with Tino’s ‘Bark of Approval’
Summer Heirloom Tomatoes
Buongiorno Foodie Friends, Well, it’s officially summer when my culinary thoughts turn to fruit and vegetables. Yeah, I know….we can get almost anything year-round here in Southern California, although not always ripe or imbued with much flavor as they’re picked too soon in order to be shipped from far away farms. However, having spent years long ago where there were 4 distinct seasons that occurred, I still like to pretend. One of summer’s bounties are heirloom tomatoes. Funny, I can think back not too terribly long ago when these were only available at small farmer’s markets, but now better grocery stores all carry them. I love them in their simplicity. Sun‑warmed, vine‑ripe beauties in all their wild shapes and colors, that look like they’re hand painted. There’s something deeply human about them…they’re imperfect, irregular and full of personality…unlike the tidy look-alikes all in rows at the supermarkets. Sweet, bright, impossibly juicy — the pure joy of summer on a plate. One of my favorite ways to enjoy them is thickly sliced, stacked on a plate with red onion, and Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue Cheese crumbled on top. Drizzled with some great EVO (lucky me that I have some Bramasole!) and some really good red wine vinegar. Lastly showered with sweet basil leaves, a couple twists of black pepper and some Maldon sea salt. They’re a reminder that some of the best things in life are fleeting, seasonal, and meant to be savored slowly. You’re Welcome… David & Tino
They Come in Cans
Hello Foodie Friends, Last week I came across an on-line chef/cook who was doing a take off on the classic French ‘Escargots Bourguignonne’ but instead of using snails he was using Maine lobster meat. While as creative and exotic as this seemed to me at first I thought that the delicate sweet flavor of lobster would be overwhelmed by being drowned in garlic butter. The second thing I thought was about the first time I’d ever experienced snails. It was the summer of 1968..I was on summer break from college and lied my way into working at what was, at the time, one of the hottest restaurants on the East Side of Manhattan…Maxwell’s Plum. Owned by movie producer Werner LeRoy, it was a theatrical tour de force. The restaurant was divided into two areas. A more casual perimeter of tables known as the Café and then in the rear, an elevated dining room covered in a real Tiffany glass ceiling that had a separate French oriented menu. As I said, I had lied my way into getting hired as a Captain and my main responsibilities were making steak tartare and Caesar salad tableside. (I have a great story about my steak tartare competition with my French GM and the derivation of the name for my French 75 in Laguna to be shared on another post). I was one of only two Americans working at the restaurant… the other guy Jimmy was a slightly older, wily, and experienced kid from Jersey who had a certain American charm that worked on all the ladies. Anyway, one day on our lunch break he said to me, half-laughing, “ I don’t understand what the fascination is with escargots….everybody knows they come in cans.” I remember him grinning sarcastically as he said this to me still like it was yesterday and have had several musings about it over the years, right up to the time I grudgingly decided to add them to the menu at my French 75 in Laguna. I used to remember how everyone DID talk about escargots like they were this ancient French delicacy…meanwhile, the vast majority DID come out of a can like a fancy Chef Boyardee product with a passport and a superiority complex. I thought about French chef’s foraging snails at dawn in misty vineyards only to hear a POP…Oh yeah…that’s the can opening. Anyway, back to French 75. When I originally opened I did not have escargots on the menu for the aforementioned reasons. However, persistent guests continue to cause me sleepless nights with their relentless onslaught of comments about how can you call yourself a French bistro and not have Escargots on the menu? Undeterred, I did some digging and to my wonderful surprise discovered that, as an alternative to these canned, lazy-ass moving slugs, there were actually basil fed snails that had an exclusive diet of fresh basil infusing them with a distinct, aromatic and herbaceous flavor…’Quelle surprise!’ Not only that, but they were not canned, rather they were cryovaced and refrigerated to preserve their freshness and flavor…I then knew I had made my peace with the strange world of mollusks and that they would be finding a home on my menu. Back to the lobster….I liked the idea of tweaking the classic Escargots dish so was off to buy some but when I arrived at the seafood counter I found a rare item instead….East Coast Bay Scallops. These tiny nuggets were very popular when I lived in Boston for 3 years after college but it is a rarity to see them in California so I decided to give them a try instead of lobster. I dug out the one baking dish I had, napped each insert with a little white wine, then a few of the tiny scallops, topped it with a savory paprika tinged garlic butter and lastly, small little circles of puff pastry. Brushed them with a little egg wash and popped them into a hot oven. 15 minutes later out they came and after letting them cool just a bit I dug in….they were delicious. The nutty flavor of the scallops still came through the garlic butter and the little puff pastry berets were not only f’ing cute but a added a nice textural contrast. You’re welcome… David with Tino’s edits
Tuscany
Buongiorno Friends, So, I just finished reviewing last month’s results regarding visits to our TATM website. I was, I guess, not completely surprised that whenever my Blog posts were about sharing stories, memories, and musings about my lifelong love affair with food, and particularly my deepening affection for Tuscany, these were the most viewed. Nope, not those posts about my dear Tino unless I mention him as my Sous Chef which leave many of you scratching your heads wondering what my little man might do to assist me in the kitchen? Answer…he keeps the floor clean of food scraps & droppings. But, I love that these are the posts you enjoy as I think it speaks to a deeper love…food can only be so good…it’s about the sharing and celebration that elevates the enjoyment and experience. For me, this is goes all the way back to the first meal I ever prepared for my family as a teenager. I remember that give me a type of joy that I had never experienced…much different than piano recitals or achievement in sports. I didn’t realize it right away, but eventually I came to learn that there is something special about creating a food experience for people who share it with camaraderie of being together. That’s why I have so gravitated toward the Tuscan lifestyle, their food and the way they celebrate every meal…large or small…savoring their pasta….stopping for an afternoon espresso…lingering over gelato. There is just something about Tuscany that feels less like a place and more like a rhythm your body remembers even if you’ve never lived there. A way of moving through the day and the world that says: slow down, taste this, look at who’s sitting across from you, let the moment be enough. It’s not curated…it’s simply how they live. It’s very easy to fall in love with that ease….the way a Tuscan morning begins with the smell of espresso drifting out of a kitchen window, someone slicing fruit, or tearing bread with their hands. The way lunch isn’t a break from life but the center of it. The way dinner stretches, not because anyone is trying to linger, but because why would you rush something so sacred? The Toscani don’t ‘host’ the way Americans host. They welcome.. they fold you into the table like you were always meant to be there. Food isn’t the star….it’s the language. Don’t get me wrong…their food is marvelous always starting with incredibly clean, pure and flavorful raw ingredients that are simply enhanced to bring out the best in them. A bowl of ribollita says ‘you’re safe here’. A plate of pappardelle with wild boar ragu says ‘this land has fed us for centuries’. A drizzle of EVO says we ‘honor the hands that made this possible.’ No one is trying to impress. They’re celebrating the everyday…the tomato that tastes like the sun, the bread that taste like the village, and the wine that tastes like the hillside. They celebrate each other too…and Oh…do they LOVE their dogs…(another reason I like them). The laughter, the arguments, the stories get louder as the night deepens. Loving the Tuscan lifestyle is really loving the idea that life is meant to be shared…not in grand gestures, but in small, repeated daily rituals that say….’I’m here…you’re here…let’s enjoy this together. My dream is to someday retire in Tuscany or at least be able to spend most of my time there. In the meantime, I will continue to write about my love for it in the hopes that, if you haven’t been….you will make plans to spend some time there…..soon. Ciao… David & Tino
Southern Comfort Burger
Hey Food Friends, I introduced this burger when I was the founder and operating partner of Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern. I was familiar with Elvis’s favorite sandwich made with peanut butter, jam and copious amounts of bacon, but one day was wondering what his favorite burger might have been. In doing some research I found he had none, although he did have a penchant for Krystal sliders, so I decided to create on that I was sure he would have liked. I’ve always liked to combine what I call my 3 S’s…spicy, sweet and smoky and I wanted it to be influenced by the deep south so felt it just HAD to include one of the most popular staples….pimento cheese. The smokiness would come from the Pecan wood smoked bacon and the sweet and spicy would both come from the jalapeño jam. One try of this unlikely combo and I was hooked….just added some crispy onion fritters for a little extra height and texture. I have to admit that one Sunday for Brunch I did make this sandwiched in between two Krispy Kreme’s… Hey, I told you I was from the Midwest.. Hope the brave ones among you take one for a test drive this month… You’re welcome… David & Tino
