Chicken Fried Steak
Hey Foodie Friends, As I think many of you know by now, I grew up in the wide-open, mostly quiet Midwest…Michigan to be exact. Where summer suppers meant bringing home fresh corn on the cob from roadside stands set up in front of the growing fields, shucked in the back yard under shade trees on the picnic table, then briefly boiled so as to still be a bit crunchy, and lastly basted in salted butter that made them taste like you feel when you know someone loves you. After the feast there was often Mom’s homemade apple or berry pies still slightly warm from the oven, sitting on the window sills, attracting honey bees, that God forbid, never leave us as they play a huge part in keeping us all fed and alive…awaiting a large and proper scoop of vanilla ice cream…yeah, if you’re asking…those memories really do still live within me and for some reason, the older I get the stronger and more frequently I visit them. But at an early age, curiosity pulled me farther. First to NYC, where I got my first taste of fine French cuisine…where I learned to respect the discipline of the brigade of line cooks who often swore at me in French for the mistakes this ‘DSK’ from Michigan made, to their reverence for butter, and the poetry of the perfect sauces they meticulously created each morning. Then later to Italy, where I discovered another level of joyous cooking not necessarily shared by the French….loud kitchens, laughter, and ingredients that didn’t need fixing because they were already beautifully singing out just in their rawness. So, my heart is, and I cook in, the intersection of all three places: the heart of the Midwest, the technique and coaxed flavors of France, and the joyful, sharing soul of Italy. I like to think my food is honest, generous, a little nostalgic, and always rooted in the belief that the best dishes tell the story of where you’ve been when shared with others. But right now, I’m wearing the big ass, beautiful, black Stetson cowboy hat the my dear friends Mike & Nancy Thompson bought be for my recent birthday because I’m cooking up a classic breakfast dish that rolls from Arizona, through Texas and into the deep Southeastern states…I’m talkin’ bout ‘Chicken Fried Steak & Eggs’. Now, full transparency as the political candidates all like to spout, I’m not a big breakfast guy…but…very rarely on the weekends, after a few 5:00 AM cups black French Roast coffees have left me buzzing, I’ll develop a late morning appetite and there is one dish I find myself jonesing for. Now the typical steak served in this dish is a sorry-ass cut of top or bottom round that is pounded and needled to death sold as ‘cubed steak’. As I was writing this post I started wondering where that term came from and discovered that some genius claimed that the name came from “the distinctive, crisscrossing pattern of indentations left on the meat during the tenderizing process”…Wow…now isn’t that some romantic marketing language…doubt that this brother is still employed by the meat people. (As a side bar however, there is something to be said for culinary wordsmithing….the lowly ‘Patagonian Toothfish’ went from selling for under $20 a pound decades ago to the current $50 a pound price at Gelson’s after switching the name to what is now known as ‘Chilean Sea Bass’…seriously people?) Anyway, back to the dish at hand. I prefer to use filet mignon for this dish for a number of reasons. Firstly, after cutting the beautiful perfectly symmetrical filets from the heart of the tenderloin, there is always the tail piece left which is very thin and not suitable as a steak so at my Taverns we cut it into small cubes, skewer, and grill it and served with pearl onions, mushrooms and napped with Bearnaise sauce, it becomes one of our most popular appetizers. Secondly, being the most tender cut of beef, it lends itself perfectly to pounding into a flat disc and can be flash fried to create the delicious crust that this dish is famous for, while still being pink and moist on the inside. The last crowning detail for this dish is always some type of pan gravy, often made with a dash of coffee….no thanks…I’ve tried that and already have already had my share of life’s bitterness. I’ve always said that the reason my Fried Chicken is the #1 selling entrée is because of the thyme gravy and it’s also a perfect fit for this dish. Served with a couple sunnyside farm fresh eggs and crisp tater tots* and you’ve got yourself one helluva satisfying breakfast and, coincidentally, it’s available every weekend this month for lunch and Sunday Brunch at my Tavern at the Mission. Tino & I hope you swing by and give it try…promise you will not be disappointed. P.S. *I have to tell you about tater tots and a lady who had recently dined with us and wrote a Yelp review about her Avocado Toast Bennedict. She said she would have given us a 5 star rating except for the ‘yucky’ tots served, a term not normally associated with qualified restaurant reviewers, so instead she gave us 4 stars. HEY LADY…dissing on tots just seems un-American. Did you know that there are 5.7 billion or 70 million tots sold each year in the US? Fun fact…they were developed in 1953 when American frozen food company Ore-Ida founders Nephi Grigg, Golden Grigg and Ross Erin Butler Sr. were trying to devise a recipe to use leftover slivers of cut potatoes that would otherwise be thrown away. They chopped up the slivers, add flour and seasoning, then pushed the mash through holes and sliced off pieces of the extruded mixture…..and now you know. You’re Welcome…. D 2.0 & T
Florentine Chicken
In Florence, tucked just off Via del Porcellana, there is a tiny dining room that feels less like a restaurant and more like a time capsule. Sostanza…..or, as the locals lovingly call it, Il Troia….is one of the city’s oldest, most unadorned, most fiercely beloved institutions. White tiles, wooden chairs, a few tables pressed close together, and a kitchen that seems to run on equal parts tradition and stubborn Florentine pride. And from that kitchen comes a dish so deceptively simple, so quietly transcendent, that it has become a pilgrimage item: the world‑famous butter chicken, or pollo al burro. Prior to my first visit to Florence years ago I was told by a friend who had spent several summers in Tuscany about this dish. He said I had to try it and if it wasn’t simply the best chicken dish that I have ever eaten that dinner was on him….he was right. In fact, a few years later when he threw a birthday party at his home for his wife for 40 guests, he asked me if I could figure out the recipe for it and give it to his caterer so it could served to his guests….I did and it was. This legendary dish is almost comically straightforward. No sauces. No flourishes. No secret marinades. Just fresh chicken breasts, patted dry, seasoned with the confidence of a century-old kitchen, and laid into a pan of European butter—the good stuff, the kind that smells like pasture and sunshine. The pan goes into a scorching oven. The butter foams, then deepens, then turns that perfect nutty brown that only happens when someone who has done it ten thousand times is watching over it. The chicken basks in it, drinks it in, emerges bronzed and glistening, swimming in a pool of fragrant, bubbling gold. When it arrives at the table in the dish it’s baked in, it’s surprisingly humble looking.. Two pieces of chicken, a lake of browned butter, with a wedge of lemon to squeeze over the top. But the first bite is where the spell is cast. The meat is impossibly tender, the butter rich but never heavy, the browned edges tasting like the best parts of roasted poultry distilled into a single moment. It’s the kind of dish that makes you put your fork down for a second, smile to yourself, and think, How can something this simple be this good??? My friends, if you ever travel to Florence this is a must…the restaurant is tiny so reservations are a must and need to be made well ahead of time. BTW….I’m adding this dish to our June Wednesday ‘Tucci Night’ specials….oh Hell yes she said! I should also mention their second famous dish… Tortino di Carciofi…artichoke custard….but I’ll save it for another post. Ciao… David 2.0 & Tino
COVID Memories
Friends, This will be the second of my new 2.0 Blog posts and I am pretty certain by now that you know that I don’t post anything that doesn’t resonate deeply with me on some level. Last week, out of the corner of my eye, I caught site of the whistleblower hearings discussing whether Dr. Fauci really knew about the source of the Corona virus and it triggered some pretty vivid memories of when Covid first hit us that I started revisiting many of them. My partner and I had just purchased the old 3Thirty3 location on Newport Harbor and were just starting to get our sea legs as Tavern House when all hell broke loose. The information on the nightly news about how it was spread was confusing and frightening. Everyone was wearing masks when out and about and even wearing gloves when pumping their own gas. Newsome told businesses to shut down, Gregg was out sick for an indeterminate period of time, and I couldn’t bear the thought of laying off 40 of our employees going into the holiday season so I opted to stay open, despite repeated threats that our liquor license would be revoked. Newport Beach supported us in spades, with and without masks, for which I am truly grateful for to this day. But today this post is about the most vivid of my memories of a young Italian kid who, in the midst of one of the most horrible shutdowns that occurred in Italy, found the inspiration to stand on a rooftop in a deserted Piazza in Rome, and play with his electric guitar one of the most beautiful songs every written by my favorite composer of all times….Ennio Morricone…Deborah’s Theme from the movie ‘Once upon a Time in America’…Italian flag next to him waving bravely in the wind. Having grown up in a household filled with music and with 12 years of classical piano under my belt, I feel confident in saying that, in my not always so humble opinion, Morricone was a genius among modern movie theme and song writers. His diverse and far-ranging works included soundtracks for Clint Eastwood’s ‘Spaghetti Westerns’ to the dark and haunting music behind ‘The Mission’ and some of the most beautiful love songs every written. You know…it’s about the human condition we all live in every waking moment but we get so caught up in just going through the motions we don’t remember to stop and soak in the beauty and glory of simple f’ing things that are right before our eyes and ears. Maybe it’s because I’m getting older and could be considered by some to be living in the ‘drop zone’…although I don’t subscribe to that. No, I’d rather think it’s a part of my 2.0 awakening that feels the need to urge others to slow down and embrace the beauty that happens in our lives..(can you say Italians?) It’s there…you just need to learn to recognize it…it’s as simple as one kid on a rooftop who makes me cry every time I listen to him play this song to a stricken, confused and depressed city of everyday Italian people. I’m not sure if it’s because it’s such a beautiful piece of music or that this young kid had the vision to know that his City needed some reassurance that the beauty of their lives would some day return…I think it’s a little of both but God bless this kid. So be on the lookout for these soulful beauties that fall in front of you…call a damned time out in your busy lif…they are out there waiting for you to behold every day. Yes, some more special than others, but I promise that they will enrich your spirit and soul and in a way that will also inspire you to share these special ‘joy gems’ as I like to call them, with those in your life who are longing to share their gems with you as well. Written by Tino 1.0…(edited by David 2.0) Love and blessings to you all…
Am I Turning Italian?
Hey Foodie Friends, To kick things off with my new style of posts here, most recently many of you have commented curiously about my recent focus on Italian foods, especially with my recently introduced ‘Tucci Night’ at Tavern at the Mission…is 2.0 turning Italian? In order to best explain this, I think a little background as to how I even ended up in this business might shed some light on my current state of mind. My passion for food started when, as a teenager I first recall one snowed in winter night reading my Mom’s ‘A Treasury of Recipes’ Cookbook by Vincent Price….why in the hell a Michigan Mom had this book I regret I never bothered to ask, but I was fascinated by all the exotic recipes that he had included from restaurants he and his wife had visited around the world. That, combined with the fact that my Mom, Cassie as she was called, prepared 3 meals a day for her husband and 6 kids (she was also called Saint Catherine) meant the kitchen was always filled with wonderful, cooked from scratch smells that helped set the stage for me eventually becoming immersed in a life that was all about food, although it wasn’t until years later that I realized that was how the seeds were all planted in me. Jumping way, way ahead now…like 15 years… (maybe I’ll share what happened in the interim period at a later date) when I opened my first restaurant Pavé in CDM in the early 80’s my menu expressed my love and fascination with French Cuisine, albeit with a California flair, whatever that was supposed to mean. But about a year after opening I became smitten with the whole ‘Contemporary Southwestern Cuisine’ movement as popularized be a handful of Chefs in LA, Dallas and, of course, Santa Fe. I began offering a separate specials sheet each night featuring some of my takes with items like BBQ Duck Saddlebag, Sweet Corn & Shrimp Tamale, Black Bean Cake topped with Grilled Spanish Gambas. Although I was unaware of this, one night Larry Cano, founder of El Torito, dined with use and a week later I received a call from his office asking if I would be willing to meet with him at their corporate offices. Very curious about this, I of course gladly accepted the offer, during which Larry explained to me that he was looking to develop a next generation restaurant that embraced the types of dishes I was creating at Pave. Long story short, he offered this ‘DS’ gringo kid from Michigan the title of Director of Concept Development and the carte blanche opportunity to create what eventually became the El Torito Grille, the first of which I opened in Fashion Island in the mid 80’s. Larry was a kind and gentle man with a great smile and love for his culture and he provided me with a springboard that led to an amazing 45 year career in this business. I considered him a dear friend and will forever be in his debt for what he offered me. Fast forward, I got a case of the happy feet and after 4 years at ET left to open my own Southwestern concept in downtown Laguna Beach…Kachina. After that I opened multiple concepts initially in the OC but eventually in San Diego and LA County as well. Never having been to Europe until later in life, I eventually enjoyed trips to Paris and Tuscany, and while I loved and knew all the traditional dishes of the French Bistros and Brasseries, my first exposure to Tuscan cooking took me quite by surprise. Growing up in the Midwest, Italian food pretty much was all about ‘heavy red’…don’t get me wrong, I love a good spicy meatball as much as any of the dudes on the Jersey Shore, but the simplicity of Tuscan cooking was not something I expected. Eating in Italy, especially Tuscany, does tend to feel healthier and cleaner, and there are real reasons for that. The magic isn’t mystical; it’s cultural, agricultural, and deeply tied to how Italians think about food, time, and pleasure. cuisine is built on fresh ingredients, simple preparations, balanced meals, and portion sanity — which naturally makes it feel cleaner, lighter, and more nourishing. Freshness is their religion…they are obsessed with things like Produce that’s in season Fish that was swimming yesterday Herbs picked that morning Olive oil pressed locally When the raw quality of ingredients are that good, you don’t need heavy sauces or processing. The food tastes alive on it’s own. It’s about a minimal number and maximum flavor of the ingredients in dishes…cooked simply and lightly seasoned. I have a record of often criticizing some Chefs for having way too many ingredients in a single dish as if trying to show how creative they are. Tomatoes + basil + olive oil + salt. No preservatives, no mystery ingredients, no “cream of something” shortcuts. Olive oil over butter, although there is a big difference between north and south….EVO is big in the South…butter often used in the North. I think we all know that extra‑virgin olive oil is, anti‑inflammatory, rich in antioxidants and heart‑healthy and is the backbone of Italian cooking. Italians eat vegetables: before the meal (antipasti) during the meal (contorni) mixed into pastas and soups It’s not a side thought — it’s the architecture of the meal. I mentioned portion sanity earier…pasta is portioned, not piled In Italy, pasta is a first course, not a trough, 4–5 ounces, not 10 and it’s balanced with vegetables, seafood, or lean proteins. It’s a pleasure that can be indulged in without worry of being excessive…moderation in all things right? Their proteins are by and large, lean and simple with lots of fish, beans, eggs, chicken and cured meats but in small amounts. The one exception to be sure is their porchetta which must be occasionally enjoyed as I did once in my backyard rotisserie. The is very little
Derby Day
Hello Friends, Yesterday’s Derby Day at TATM felt like pure magic. From the moment we opened, the patio filled with color, laughter, and that unmistakable Derby sparkle — elegant women in whimsical fascinators, and one unforgettable gentleman in a peacock ensemble that could have graced the cover of a magazine. The Juleps — mint, peach, blackberry — were flowing like we had a direct line to Kentucky itself. The spicy Southern Pimento Dip became the unofficial star of the afternoon. And by the time the horses lined up, the Tumbleweed Bar was shoulder‑to‑shoulder, roaring, laughing, and rocking.Valentino made his rounds, of course, offering charm and smiles to delighted guests. Thank you for gathering with us to honor a tradition that stretches deep into American history — older than the race car, older than the Indy 500, older than so many rituals that define us today. When we created Tavern at the Mission, we hoped to build a place that felt like the taverns of early California — a true meeting place, a home for stories, laughter, and connection. Yesterday reminded us how beautifully South County has embraced that vision. Shall we saddle up and do it all again for the Belmont Stakes on June 6?
Cowboy Bourbon
Given the increasing popularity of Bourbons, especially among our cowboy friends in San Juan Capistrano, we recently introduced a new Bourbon list including flight tastings and the introduction of a line of of Texas produced Garrison Brothers Bourbons. They have an interested story that I thought I’d share with you. The Garrison Brothers is the story of one stubborn Texan, a scorching Hill Country Ranch, and a dream to make the first great Texas bourbon….long before anyone thought it was possible. What began as a financial collapse and a wild idea turned into one of the most respected craft distilleries in America. Last year I had a guest come into my Tumbleweed Bar and ask if we had Cowboy Bourbon. Welp, I had never heard of it but I started researching it and was introduced to the history of Garrisons Bourbon. As a result I developed a new Bourbon list featuring 5 of their different bourbons including the rare, hard to get, ‘Cowboy. Several months later, I was told that founder Dan Garrison was going to be in Orange County and was asked if I’d like him to come by and talk to my staff about his history and their delicious bourbons…I jumped at the chance. When he visited us he explained that he didn’t know anything about how to distill so he spent some time in Kentucky touring distilleries and asking questions. He then returned to his small ranch in Hye, Texas, built a barn and started with Texas grain, rainwater and scorching heat. He said the heat became both his enemy and the secret to his success. Barrels exploded, bourbon evaporated, and he ran out of money four times. But….the same heart also accelerated aging…it took one fifth the time that it does in Kentucky. The Cowboy bourbon started out actually as an accident. Early on, several barrels weren’t meeting their distillery standards. They were high-proof, wild, and inconsistent. Dan instructed that they dump them into a stainless-steel tank and that they would “figure it out later”. Months passed and one day Dan pulled a sample….everything had changed. The bourbon had mellowed, transformed, and become something quite extraordinary….rich, sweet, powerful and shockingly smooth for its proof (140+). That accidental blend became the first Cowboy Bourbon. Since then is has developed a cult following among collectors and whiskey nerds. It is unfiltered, uncut, and bottled straight from the barrel. Most bourbons at 140 proof taste like jet fuel. The Cowboy tastes like dessert with a kick. It has a limited annual release often selling out immediately. A collector’s item with bottles sometimes line up for days A symbol of Texas whiskey’s bold identity. A multi-award winning spirit earning Platinum and Gold Medals across major competitions. In closing, we have a half bottle left of this year’s allotment so it won’t last long but if you’re willing to part with $80 for a glass, it’s an experience you won’t soon forget…strap in and step up! David 2.0
Tucci and Cowboy
Good morning.. Sorry that it’s been a while since my last post but I’ve been busy working on new dishes for one of my new favorite nights at Tavern at the Mission….Stanley Tucci Night! Each Wednesday I get a chance to share my love, and Stanley’s, for all things Italian. I feature one entrée, appetizer and 3 pasta dishes each week along with my favorite desserts….Affogato! The other night we all love is Cowboy Thursdays which give the cowboy or cowgirl in each of us a chance to put on our hats, boots and duds and hang out on our patio and Tumbleweed Bar. Just wearing your cowboy hat entitles you to drink half off all night….yep…that means wine, beer and cocktails. I have a great country western playlist that we crank up and a great time is had for all. Before I go, I’ve received many requests about recipes so look for some of my restaurant and home version favorites in future posts. Also, if you’re not signed up as a VIP-Eclub member, please go on our website at www.tavernatthemission.com and sign up for other exclusive privileges and discounts like 25% off all food during weekday lunches and 30% discount on all food on Tuesday Nights… Stay tuned and thanks for following!
Squash Blossoms
Buongiorno my Foodie Friends! I want to chat about one of my favorite vegetables….squash blossoms. These beauties are one of those ingredients that feel like a little culinary secret….delicate, fleeting, mildly sweet, almost floral, and capable of making a dish feel and look instantly special, beautiful and adding a touch of whimsy. They also make people feel like they’re getting something both special and ephemeral and reinforces that the dish they are in is fresh, intentional and tied to the moment. They are used extensively in Italy and Mexico. Known as ‘fiori di zucca’ in Italian, they are used in pastas, frittatas and soups but most often served stuffed with ricotta and herbs, lightly battered and fried…my favorite way or preparing them…I mean, can you imagine a more beautiful, delicate and thoughtful hors d’oeuvre? In Mexico, called ‘flores de calabaza’, they are commonly found in quesadillas, soups and stews. But in America….wtf? The only place you can normally find them is at Farmer’s Markets, which I guess is at least one good thing but I don’t understand why they are not more readily available in our better markets. Yes, they are somewhat fragile, but I can tell you from my personal experience in my restaurants, when properly packed and kept refrigerated, they have a remarkable shelf life well beyond what you would imagine given their delicate nature. So I encourage you all to seek them out at your local Farmers Markets and also start asking the produce managers in your go-to, high end, neighborhood markets to start carrying them so you can enjoy them and impress your dinner party guests. Blossoms Rule! David 2.0
Tucci Night
Hey Friends, This coming Wednesday we start month two of our celebration of all things Italian and who better to focus on but our beloved Stanley Tucci! Each month we will be featuring different Italian dishes but will always include the dish that Tucci said “Changed my life”….Pasta all Nerano. This simple dish, is based upon what I consider one of the most boring vegetables on God’s green earth…zucchini. But to my shock, the first time I tried this recipe I discovered that it transforms this lowly veggie into something quite astonishing, if not addictive as I’ve found myself making it for a late supper at least once a week. I am featuring two new dishes this month. The first is Tortellaccis stuffed with rich, braised short ribs topped with a sprinkle of Parmigiana, napped with a Sage Brown Butter Sauce, and drizzled with a White Truffle Infusion. The second is the classic Fettucine Alfredo tossed with Grilled Mary’s Chicken Breast, Pecan-wood smoked Bacon and Sweet Peas. I hope you can join us for what I call “A mid-week, culinary transport without leaving San Juan Capistrano!” David 2.0
Tucci Night
Good morning Friends, Our Stanley Tucci celebration night continues to grow more popular each week and we’re having a blast as well. While not featuring too many Italian dishes on our menu, For some time, I have harbored a love for all things Italian, especially the rich history of Tuscan cooking. Inspired by my annual trips to Italy and Tucci’s humor and passion, he came up this weekly celebration. As mentioned earlier, some of the dishes are Tucci favorites that were featured on his ‘Searching for Italy’ series but many are my interpretation of his Italian faves. Whatever you choose I’m sure you’ll enjoy…Mangia!
