A Florentine Celebration Figs
Hello Friends, Late summer in Florence has a particular sweetness…not loud, not showy, but one that hangs in the warm air like a secret. It’s the season when the city’s sandwich shops begin their quiet ritual. Split crispy Schiacciata, draped, silky Prosciutto, and a cloud-soft scoop of Stracciatella all crowned with sliced, luscious figs, and lastly drizzled with locally produced honey. The Florentines wait for this moment. For a few weeks each year, Florence becomes a city obsessed. Locals line up at their favorite Schiacciata shops and tourists discover the magic by accident. Vendors stack them in wooden creates, bakeries adjust their menus, and suddenly the city is full of these salty-sweet, creamy and bright sandwiches that feel like eating the last golden days of summer….a kind of edible nostalgia. It’s yet another reminder that seasons turn, that fruit ripens, that pleasure can be fleeting and therefore more precious. So, to celebrate this ritual I am offering this sandwich all month calling it the ‘Cortona’ after one of my favorite places in Tuscany. I’ve been doing tastings of many of my favorite Tuscan sandwiches and every time I do, this fig version ends up being the hands down favorite so I think you’re in for a unique taste treat. The only variation is that I’m drizzling ‘Hot Honey’ on my version which, btw is currently becoming all the rage being drizzled on sandwiches, flatbreads and pizzas. It just adds a certain zip to this beauty. I hope you can join us this month and enjoy this special treat. Ciao… David & Tino
Dolce far niente
Hello Friends… I thought that with the approach of Labor Day it might be a good day to share my thoughts about the Italian philosophy of ‘Dolce far niente’….‘the Sweetness of doing nothing’. Their feeling is that life is way too short to rush through every sunrise and sunset and to not enjoy the simple pleasures of life.…the delicious act of doing absolutely nothing. Pour a glass of wine, sit in the sun, let the world spin without you for a while. Dolce far niente is a lifestyle…not a luxury. The sweetest parts of lifehappen when we slow down long enough to notice them. There are seasons and with each comes its own time and purpose…be a good steward of your time…use it wisely…be productive…it’s the one thing you can’t make more of The first video explains this. The second link is a beautiful song that speaks to the same. I hope you take the time to enjoy. As a type A, workaholic, it has taken me some time to appreciate this philosophy and it all started with my very first trip to Italy. Since then, and I have been fortunate enough to have spent many wonderful hours and days at Casa Sant’Angelo practicing ‘the sweetness of doing nothing.’ It is a beautifully renovated, 400 year old farmhouse in Cortona that is available to rent should you want to dip your toe in the water of calming bliss. You’re Welcome… David & Tino The first video below explains it….the second is just a beautiful song saying it in yet another way…we hope you enjoy them… https://www.instagram.com/reel/DbYKOQwtRMP/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KoM6k1k5q4
Beautiful Zucchini Madness
Hey Friends, How does one wax poetic over a squash one might ask? Up until 6 months ago I never would have been able to but one, Stanley Tucci, taught me to respect this humble child of the garden so here it goes my friends. For those home gardeners among you this is the time of the year that when you turn your back for a day, suddenly your zucchini plants behave like overenthusiastic houseguests…showing up with armfuls of gifts you didn’t ask for and can’t possibly use fast enough. And tucked among the leaves are the treasures, the blossoms: fragile, delicate, golden, perfumed, like they were made by the sunrise, and here just for a fleeting heartbeat. They’re the reminder that the plant isn’t just productive, it’s alive. They open early, glowing like little lanterns, and collapse by afternoon…kind of a wonderful garden chaos that you get to try and make some beautiful sense of…..you got this. You need to just meet them on their terms and learn to cook them in two tempos at once. The zucchini survive well in the fridge until they’re ready to be sliced, kissed by a fiery grill making them all sweet & smoky, then drizzled with your best EVO and shaved Parmigiano or made into what is now the world famous ‘Pasta alla Nerano’ (available, BTW every Wednesday night at TATM😁) The blossoms demand a bit of immediacy, however. If you’re a bit ambitious, they can be stuffed with a blend of Ricotta and Boursin, lightly dusted with some of those ‘Italian Style’ breadcrumbs that you bought two months ago and then wondered what the hell you would ever do with them, and then pan fried in olive oil until crispy on the outside with the creamy, luscious insides begging you to devour. For those a little less ambitious, mix equal parts 00 flour and sparkling water then fold the chopped blossoms into it along with some basil leaves, Parmesan, garlic and a little seasoning, shape into little patties, and give them the same hot tub bath in the olive oil as their stuffed, more sophisticated cousins. No time or skill sets? Just add them to soup, pasta or French scrambled eggs and enjoy the flowery magic they create. The trick to this season is saying yes to both. It’s the garden teaching you abundance and impermanence in the same breath. You’re Welcome… David & Tino (aka ‘The Prancer’)
Another Tuscan Celebration!
Hello Again Friends, Yes, again it’s already time for another historical Tuscan event and celebration…they do love to party. And, as promised, whenever I provide a little Italian history lesson, I also will include one of my favorite recipes so your indulgence is not all in vain…so see it at the end of my blog post. This event takes place in yet another one of their beautiful and quaint hill cities…Montepulciano and is called “Bravio delle Botti” and takes place on the last Sunday in August. Similar to the Palio de Siena, this event also pits the 8 different neighborhoods (Contradas) against each other in serious competition. Originally it took place with horses but eventually was replaced in 1974 with giant wine barrels that were both safer and significantly funnier. It takes place every year on the last Sunday of August when the medieval streets of the city transform into a kind of Tuscan Olympics…that is if the Olympics were sponsored exclusively by winemakers and questionable life choices. The race is preceded by a fascinating historical parade, characterized by the presence of hundreds of locals all dressed up in costumes who parade along the same route throwing flags, playing medieval drums and evoking striking images of ancient times. Each Contrade sends forth their bravest two-person teams tasked with rolling 175-pound wine barrels UPHILL for approximately 1 mile to the Piazza Grande. The spectators all scream, pounds drums, wave flags and yell advice to their teams that absolutely no one can hear as two exhausted athletes desperately try to keep a runaway barrel from flattening a tourist. It’s part Renaissance pageant, part neighborhood rivalry and part cardio workout from hell. It’s loud, sweaty, chaotic, and absolutely delightful. A finish line is perched dramatically on the cathedral steps, because nothing says ‘victory’ like arriving at church drenched in sweat and barrel dust. The barrels wobble, zigzag, and occasionally do attempt to escape. The team push with heroic determination, fueled by adrenaline, civic pride, and probably the promise of Vino Nobile afterward. The winning Contrada claims the Panno, a painted banner created each year by a local artist. It is paraded home triumphantly, where it will be admired, toasted, and bragged about until next August. Bravio delle Botti is the only sporting even where: -The athletes push the equipment instead of using it. -the equipment weighs more than the athlete -the crowd cheers like it’s the World Cup -and everyone ends the day drinking the very thing the barrels WOULD have held. It’s Montepulciano at its most joyful, most theatrical, and most wonderfully ridiculous. It’s year another reason why I love the Italians… David & Tino
Prosciutto & Melon Redux
Good Morning Friends, In addition to my love for summer heirloom tomatoes there is another dish that is also one of my go to favs….the classic Italian Prosciutto & melon. I like to mix up what is normally just prosciutto draped over melon slices and turn it into a free form salad. I start with a base of radicchio leaves then shower them with small slices of melon, I prefer cantaloupe, then sprinkle ribbons of prosciutto and shaved Parmigiano on top. To finish just a drizzle of EVO, cracked pepper and some lime wedges. I love the way the bitterness of the radicchio plays off the sweetness of the melon and the creaminess of the Prosciutto. I urge you to give this a try as a great warm weather summer starter. BTW…Sorry for the blurry picture as I was anxious to dig in before I checked the quality of the photo! You’re welcome… David & Tino
Fromage Fort
Hello Friends, I’ve been doing a lot of cheese sampling for the new Florence inspired sandwiches that I’m offering at my Tavern at the Mission and yesterday I looked at the cheese drawer in my fridge and realized it was overflowing with orphaned bits and pieces of leftover great cheeses. There was a proud heel of Parmigiano, hardened like an old soldier, a smidge of Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue sitting all by itself in the corner, some silky, sexy Stracciatella, a chunk of aged and, lo and behold, my queen of all cheeses….Taleggio. They were all just sitting there like mismatched guests after a dinner party, wondering if there is anything that becomes of them when they are past their prime, but not past their purpose. I then remembered a little trick that I used at Chat Noir when we had lots of leftover cheese from the charcuterie and fromage plates we used to serve. It’s a clever way of extending the life of cheeses invented by the frugal French when they are blended all together with a little white wine, brandy or even and eau de vie, which is a is a clear, colorless fruit brandy that is produced by fermentation and double distillation. So, there I was, a benevolent rescuer armed with my bad ass Breville food processor, also given to me as a gift by someone very special, along with a little leftover Reisling and a thimble of Brandy…and so the ‘After Party’ began. No pecking order necessary…they were all willingly just tumbled together in the bowl. When wine and brandy were splashed on them, I could swear they perked up and brightened now knowing their ultimate destiny was about to be realized. Then a couple herbs joined the party…chives and thyme leaves along with a whisper of garlic…and suddenly, the whole mixture becoming a lush, velvety spread with the swagger of a French Grand-mere who knows exactly what to do with leftovers. This is FROMAGE FORT…the triumphant second life of forgotten cheeses, reborn in their after life as a bold, boozy, utterly irresistible spread. I also was long on some of the herbed Schiacciatta bread used in my sandwiches that I had wrapped and tucked in the fridge not knowing what their future was until now. A few minutes in the air fryer and I was enjoying one glorious culinary marriage. A humble redemption story….starring my fridge. You’re Welcome David & Tino
Heirloom Tomatoes are Showing Off!
Hey Foodie Friends, These guys have decided to ‘peacock’ this month and they are outrageously beautiful and luscious, so I encourage you not to miss them. They are glorious right now with all their wild, wavy shapes, sunset colors and that sun-warmed perfume that hits you before you even slice into them. But when you so, their beauty inside looks like marbled sunset glass. This is the time we wait for all year…a few short weeks when they stop behaving like produce and start acting like celebrities. If you’re a tomato lover, a summer romantic like me, or just someone who knows a thing of beauty when it’s sitting on a cutting board, this is your cue. I’m enjoying them right now sliced, drizzled with EVO and a touch of great red wine vinegar, and Maldon Sea salt. Nothing compliments them better than some grilled bread and cheese, so I made some whipped Gorgonzola piped onto toasted croustades topped with some micro arugula and they are epic. Just take 2 parts of your favorite blue cheese with 1 part of cream cheese, both allowed to come to room temperature, along with a touch of cream put into a food processor or mixer and you’ve got some simple but delicious magic that goes wonderfully with your heirlooms. Summer doesn’t last forever so let these beauties steal the show on your plate while they’re still at their peak. You’re Welcome… David & Tino
Palio de Siena
Ciao Fans if Italy, Yes, today is another post about historical traditions in Tuscany…August 16th…the ‘Palio de Siena’: A glorious, beautiful, historically significant circus of absolute chaos! (But before I start, I thought it only fair that when I do a post on what some might view to be a boring lesson in Italian history, I should at least share one of my recipes with you, so if you go to my Blog you will find one for a Lemon, Pistachio and EVO Torte that is great with your morning Cappuccino or with a scoop of gelato for dessert.) It is one of Italy’s oldest and most beloved traditions…a twice yearly horse race dating back to the Middle Ages, fun in the Piazza del Campo, a public square that looks like a Renaissance painting but behaves like a gladiator arena. It began as a way for Siena’s neighborhood clans to show off civic pride, military readiness, and general swagger. Today, it’s still about pride and tradition, but also about bragging rights, questionable strategy, and horses who have no idea why everyone is screaming. The different clans, called ‘contrades’ spend months preparing elaborate pageantry, parades, blessings and strategy sessions. It’s all very solemn and ceremonial until the moment the horses line up…and then it becomes a mediaeval version of ‘Mario Kart’ but with real consequences. The race itself is only 90 seconds but it’s pure, unfiltered mayhem. The track is a tight, sandy loop around the piazza’s sloping edges, causing horses to skid, jockeys fly, crowds roar, and somewhere kin the chaos a victor emerges. The horses start from a standstill but not in gates…they’re lined up between two ropes, which is basically the horse version of ‘good luck brother.’ The jockeys ride bareback because apparently stirrups are for candy asses and people who don’t appreciate danger. They are allowed to ‘interfere’ with each other which is a polite way of saying they can whip the s**t out of the other guy. A horse can even win the race if his jockey falls off, which happens often. Siena is the only place where a riderless horse is celebrated like a conquering hero. Why both we and the Italians love it? Because it is magnificently whacky…I can’t think of any tradition like it that we have in this country…at least one that garners national attention like the Palio does. It’s absurd, beautiful, chaotic, ancient, emotional, dangerous, poetic and ridiculous….and it’s Siena. Gotta love the Italians…I do… David & Valentino
Saint Lawrence
Hello Friends and Lovers of all things Italian, I love learning about the annual traditions and celebrations in Italy and I want to share a story about one of the most well-known Italian Saints and one, for reasons which will soon become evident, is a favorite. He is celebrated and feasted throughout Italy today, August 10theach year and in doing my research on him I immediately felt a kinship and wanted to take the liberty to share my modern-day interpretation of how he became a Saint. That said, know in advance that his may not be one of the most exciting posts that I have recently written. Long before San Juan Capistrano had bells or swallows or adobe walls warming in the sun, Rome was a city of marble and menace. And in that city lived Lawrence, a deacon with a grin that always seems a little too wide for someone serving under an emperor known for torching Christians like lanterns. He was a 3rd‑century Christian deacon and martyr. He’s one of the most beloved saints in Catholic tradition, known for his courage, his devotion to the poor, and the dramatic story of his death. San Lorenzo (Saint Lawrence) is the patron saint of cooks, chefs, the poor and firefighters. Lawrence had a reputation: he fed the poor, joked with the soldiers, and had a habit of turning every solemn moment into something gently irreverent. One summer evening, Emperor Valerian summoned him and said “Deacon, I want you to collect the treasures of the Church, meaning the money, and bring them to me by sunrise.” Lawrence bowed and all night he walked the alleys of Rome…past bakers closing their shutters, past taverns spilling laughter, past families huddled in their doorways. He gathered the blind, the widowed, the crippled and the hungry…people who had nothing except each other. At dawn, he marched them into the Emperor’s courtyard. Valerian demanded “Where are the treasures?” Lawrence swept his arm toward the crowd and said ‘Here…these are the treasures of the Church.” For this act of holy defiance, he was sentenced to death by gridiron. A great iron grate was heated until it glowed like the sun and then Lawrence was laid upon it. And here is part of the legend that makes him unforgettable: As the fire roared and the soldiers wiped the sweat from their brows, Lawrence lifted his head, winked, and said “Turn me over…I’m done on this side.” His grisly death by fire links him to the kitchen, particularly those who use grills and he is considered the protector against fire. He must have been one brave and bad ass dude with a wicked sense of humor. He is frequently depicted holding a grill grate, representing his method of execution. The Basilica of San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura is one of the 7 major pilgrimage churches in Rome, built over his burial site. His celebration is a feast day often marked by grilling steaks ala the famous ‘Bistecca Fiorentina’. The night of August 10th is known in Italy as La Notte de San Lorenzo often associated with the Perseid meteor shower, considered to be the sparks from his martyrdom. This annual celestial event peaks around August 12-13 with up to 100 bright ‘shooting stars’ per hour. In terms of celebrations, because San Lorenzo was martyred on a gridiron, fire becomes the symbolic heart of the feast. center around solemn religious services, neighborhood street festivals, and stargazing traditions. Major events in Rome include masses at the Basilica of St. Lawrence Outside the Walls, local food markets, and public viewings of the saint’s relics including pieces of the gridiron he was executed on and pieces of his skull…whoa! Grilling is central — especially in Tuscany, where people cook ‘Bistecca Fiorentina’ or other grilled meats as a nod to the grill. However, in Naples and Bologna, some communities abstain from meat out of respect for the martyr, serving grilled watermelon “steaks” instead…..not sure that’s such a great idea…cauliflower or broccoli steak makes a little more sense to me. In his honor, I’ll be grilling a large porter house outside tonight with some rosemary roasted potatoes and some summer corn. Happy celebrations to all you followers… David & Tino
Funghi & Tartufo
Good morning foodie friends….today is about ‘Funghi & Tartufo’. I’m a lover of mushrooms and truffles and this month at TATM I’m introducing one of my favorite flatbreads with one of my favorite Italian cheeses….Taleggio….friends, this is just one sexy cheese. Whenever I prepare mushrooms, it reminds me of the several years I lived up in the redwood forests of Boulder Creek in Northern California. Even in the summer the air was filled with a mossy scent where wild ferns grew everywhere beneath the canopy of the sun-blocking trees. We lived in a little red shingled house on a large lot with a stream running behind it. The property was overgrown with wild blackberries and Peruvian lilies that would sprout up every spring. I was working as a line cook for the very first time at a little French restaurant in Saratoga called Le Mouton Noir. It was owned by a very nice couple who were passionate about French food and we made absolutely everything from scratch. I guess they were pleased with my work and enthusiasm because they bought me my first Cuisinart, something I couldn’t afford back then. We didn’t have much money….Gallo Hearty Burgundy was our go-to wine at home, but we ate well mainly hearty soups and stews that I prepared. I remember the first two things I made with my shiny new Cuisinart was a frozen wild blackberry souffle made with the ones from our yard and a pork & duck pate…I was hooked on my new toy. Anyway, I digress….back to the mushrooms. When preparing them I often start by slow roasting them with shallots and fresh thyme which concentrates the flavor creating caramelized edges, tender centers…a little forest floor mystery if you will. They bring both an earthiness and elegance, like a floating whisper from a mossy hillside after a rain. Next, the Taleggio is introduced, which is one of the oldest soft cheeses in Italy originating back to the 9th century in the Val Taleggio valley of Lombardy. It is washed once a week with a seawater sponge to prevent mold growth and to form a very thin, edible orange or rose crust. Into a blazing hot oven, the flatbread goes until the edges are brown and crispy and the cheese works its magic. It doesn’t just melt…it oozes velvet richness, wrapping the mushrooms in a lush, decadent cloak. Out of the oven and ready for its final caress as white Truffle oil is drizzled across the top with its buttery aroma. A little wild and intoxicating as it threads through the Taleggio and mushrooms like a silk ribbon, tying everything together with pure indulgence. A flatbread like this doesn’t just feed you…it seduces you. You’re Welcome… David & Tino
